Monday, April 29, 2013

Restaurant review, Get Serious.


Is David on set?” asks the lady with the grape-size earrings as a crowd of us mingle uneasily by the coat check, in the narrow mosh pit of a bar space at Fishtail, David Burke’s new seafood restaurant on East 62nd Street. Burke isn’t “on set,” as it happens, but all around us the chef’s trademark Willy Wonka flamboyance is on full display. The downstairs bar area is stuffed with purple banquettes and the walls are patterned with white, wavy ridges like the belly of a whale. Upstairs, the walls are adorned with oil paintings of psychedelic fish, and nattily dressed waiters bustle between the tables, hoisting toppling “Fishtail Towers” heaped with stone-crab claws from Florida and oysters from Yakima Bay. The tables are packed with antic couples from Jersey and round-faced gentlemen with deep Florida suntans, and the din in the joint is so loud that one of the bedazzled downtowners at my table compared it to “a grenade going off in the basement of Barneys.”

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