Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Restaurant review, Mexican, Unmasked.



As any West Coast taco lunatic will tell you, New York’s Mexican food is not the city’s strongest culinary selling point. Still, it’s never been that hard to find a fast and tasty fix on any of the tortilla-griddling corridors, from Spanish Harlem to Sunset Park. And lately, in fact, makeshift taquerias have been springing up everywhere: on carts and trucks of varying degrees of hipness and authenticity, ensconced in the back of nondescript bodegas, tucked inside tortilla factories in the industrial outer-borough wilds, even down in Dumbo at the Brooklyn Flea, where one self-proclaimed Choncho (“fat guy”) has been stuffing fried cod into tortillas made fresh daily in an artisanal Corona tortilleria (see here).

The taco boomlet might not yet threaten the burger craze, the fried-chicken frenzy, or the pizza explosion, but it is big enough to birth an entertaining subgenre: the Mexican-wrestling-themed taqueria. Lucha libre, as the “sport” is called, is something like the WWE, only with masks, a lot more finesse, and a kitschy motion-picture tradition that extends way beyond the Jack Black vehicle, Nacho Libre. It’s a national pastime and a cottage industry, and, as of this fall, it’s the decorative inspiration behind two new taco joints.

Read more at http://nymag.com/

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