At a dinner shortly before Christmas, I was placed next to a fellow restaurant critic far more experienced than me. Shortly before dessert, I asked whether he felt there were any occupational hazards attached to this most privileged of occupations. The lady to his left instantly snapped at us: "The tendency to sound ungrateful." Indeed, what could be worse, than to eat at fine restaurants, be paid for it, and still come across as ungrateful? So it is with a heavy heart that I make this confession: there follows a report about Morgan M in which your correspondent answers very neatly to the lady's description.
It's a relative thing. The previous week, as long-suffering readers will know, I had been to Dabbous, an exceptionally good new opening in the centre of London, where there is a tasting menu for £50. At Morgan M, the same deal goes, but it can't compete. Therefore I am in the curious position of recommending this place but also saying that, for this price, there's markedly better elsewhere.
Morgan Meunier is a distinguished chef. For years his Islington redoubt served classic French cuisine with panache. He has now moved to a site opposite Smithfields market, where most of the passing trade will presumably come from City spillovers brandishing the company card.
Read more at http://www.independent.co.uk
At a dinner shortly before Christmas, I was placed next to a fellow restaurant critic far more experienced than me. Shortly before dessert, I asked whether he felt there were any occupational hazards attached to this most privileged of occupations. The lady to his left instantly snapped at us: "The tendency to sound ungrateful." Indeed, what could be worse, than to eat at fine restaurants, be paid for it, and still come across as ungrateful? So it is with a heavy heart that I make this confession: there follows a report about Morgan M in which your correspondent answers very neatly to the lady's description.
It's a relative thing. The previous week, as long-suffering readers will know, I had been to Dabbous, an exceptionally good new opening in the centre of London, where there is a tasting menu for £50. At Morgan M, the same deal goes, but it can't compete. Therefore I am in the curious position of recommending this place but also saying that, for this price, there's markedly better elsewhere.
Morgan Meunier is a distinguished chef. For years his Islington redoubt served classic French cuisine with panache. He has now moved to a site opposite Smithfields market, where most of the passing trade will presumably come from City spillovers brandishing the company card.
Read more at http://www.independent.co.uk
Read more at http://www.independent.co.uk
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