Restaurant review Quo Vadis, 26-29 Dean Street, London.

There's a certain scene when a new restaurant opens, or when a lauded chef finds a new berth. The foodie cognoscenti descend and the place is abuzz with bloggers and critics, chefs and PRs, taking pictures, comparing notes and getting love bombs from the staff.

All of which could be rather irritating for the paying customers, I imagine. I've been at new openings when civilians were practically pushed aside in the rush to bestow free extra dishes and glasses of champagne on the favoured few.

The restaurant that's got the foodies in a froth this week is Quo Vadis, a beauteous Soho establishment that has passed through various stellar owners over the years. It's now in the care of Sam and Eddie Hart, whose Fino and Barrafina are brilliant and unfussy.

After three years they have handed over the kitchen to Jeremy Lee, a star in his own right from 16 years at The Blueprint Café at Tower Bridge – a paean to minimal deliciousness.

The buzz about Lee's move is almost deafening when I arrive. (I don't have any great desire to be one of the first through the door, but January has brought me two birthdays, one anniversary and a lot of parent/teacher action to attend to, so opportunities for dining out are scarce.)

Lee, Eddie Hart and maître'd Jon Spiteri (champion host, late of St John) are all working the series of rooms. Quo Vadis, with its stained-glass windows and airy feel, has simply been pared down further from its already quiet elegance, the art on the walls removed and the crisp white tablecloths brought back.

To one side of the table that Mr M and I occupy are a couple of foodie scenesters; on the other, two well-known bon viveurs. There are so many Campari, orange and pomegranate cocktails flying past that it takes a few minutes to flag down a waiter.

Read more at http://www.independent.co.uk/