Ever since the local debut of the potato-stuffed crepe known as masala dosa at Madras Woodlands—a franchise from India that lurked near the U.N. in the late '70s—southern Indian vegetarian cooking has gradually become more available in the metropolitan area. Exploiting grain and lentils for their complex nourishment, it's the most advanced vegetarian cuisine in the world, supplementing earthy flavors with adventitious fermentation and a rainbow of chutneys. Moreover, the cuisine is so delicious and spice-intensive that no one misses the meat.
In the interim, we've become familiar with a catalog of dosa variations, including the Mysore masala dosa (coated inside with fiery spices), the paper dosa (thinner and crunchier), and the rava dosa (substituting wheat for urad dal in the batter). We've even witnessed the birth of new dosas, such as the "cheese dosa" I ate recently, oozing mass-produced mozzarella and not really very good. Believe it or not, further surprises await us from the vegetarian cuisine of southern India.
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