I've been following April Bloomfield since she cooked Tuscan at the River Café in London. Six years ago, the English chef weighed anchor and crossed the Atlantic to helm the Spotted Pig in the West Village, whipping up an odd but effective combo of Central Italian fare and Brit pub grub. Late in 2008, she added the John Dory to her list of culinary successes, a posh Chelsea seafood spot that closed unexpectedly a few months ago for reasons that still remain shrouded in mystery.
The Breslin is her latest vessel, and, while the Spotted Pig was decorated with dozens of pig statuettes, and the John Dory with entire schools of multi-hued fish, the Breslin features pastoral paintings of cows, framed as if they were long-lost relatives. Located cheek-by-jowl with the wildly popular Stumptown Coffee, the restaurant nestles next to the lobby of the Ace Hotel, a former SRO hostelry turned trendy playground in Manhattan's gritty wholesale district. The Breslin comprises a darkened warren of rooms with an open kitchen gleaming at one end, casting light on the upturned faces of foodies who can't wait to graze on Bloomfield's latest inventions, and foreign travelers who seem frankly confused by the menu choices.
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