Tom Aikens 43 Elystan Street, London.

There's a saying in fashion: "Just because you can do the zip up doesn't mean you should." In other words, ability isn't the only consideration. After dinner at Tom Aikens I want to go into the kitchen and say, "Just because you can make crispy milk skin doesn't mean you should."

Those who eat out will know about Aikens – earmarked for greatness from an early age, he held two Michelin stars at Pied à Terre, followed by one at his eponymous restaurant (Mk I) in 2005. He expanded, crashed and burned, got new backing, then entirely reinvented his menu and the room it's served in.

He's a survivor, yes, but what we want to know is whether Tom Aikens Mk II is any good. For the short answer, see the comment about milk skin above.

I take my friend Tina along. She's immune to foodie hyperbole, and likes nothing better than a toasted bagel and a cup of tea but – crucially – she understands fashion in a way I never will. And this restaurant is all about fashion.

We are seated by the window; pools of light illuminate empty tables in the gloom but it's still possible to make out the food-related quotes printed on the walls. They're not inspiring.

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