'Hey, this looks like my dad's rec room," said my date, scanning the darkened premises as we entered the Commodore. "Danish modern hanging lamps and padded bar stools with backs, beamed ceiling, a circular booth in the corner, and a bar as long as the basement would allow," she continued, cheerfully ticking off the common attributes. The Commodore doesn't look like much from the outside, either, resembling the kind of signless corner bar where the patronage is confined to regulars and you may find your welcome colder than the beer.
But the Commodore is yet another of Williamsburg's theme restaurants, and a pretty good one at that—though the theme is as muddled as the mint in one of the bar's juleps. The name suggests a nautical motif, but that's confined to the cocktail menu, which looks to mixed drinks of the past for inspiration. Jesus, they're strong! In crude line drawings, these cocktails are depicted on a placemat with the ingredients scrupulously listed beneath, as if the mayor himself had demanded it. There's the self-titled Commodore, an achingly sweet piña colada with Amaretto poured on top. (The placemat calls the liqueur a "float," but it's more of a "sink.") At the opposite end of the sugary spectrum, find the Boat Drink—a hyper-dry concoction of dark rum and soda, with just a dash of lime juice.
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