Named after an ugly fish with almost-human teeth once caught by colonial English anglers, Sheepshead Bay has long been the city's capital of cheap seafood. But where once ruled Italian clam bars (of which Randazzo's remains the last holdout), the margin of the bay sandwiched between Coney Island and the Brooklyn mainland is now filled with Greek, Turkish, and Chinese seafood spots, all offering prices about half of what you'd expect to pay in Manhattan.
Roll-N-Roaster once marked the eastern end of this restaurant row, but now the strip is creeping further eastward, with Turkish, Ukrainian, and Italian restaurants extending the strip by several more blocks. The Turks seem to be the most aggressive, with two competing saltwater spots. My crew and I set about contrasting these on consecutive weekends. The first was Halikarnas, named after a humongous outdoor disco in Bodrum, on Turkey's southwest coast.
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