It's always been the mark of a great chef to treat the ugly and unpleasant with a bit of tenderness, to find the delicious where it's least expected. At Aska, in Williamsburg, Swedish-born chef Fredrik Berselius cooks hairy roots, bitter lichen, and monkfish, the hideous, bottom-dwelling loner that conceals a wormy liver, rich like foie gras, but with double the funk. Berselius serves the liver alongside the meat in a dark sauce made from the bones—a dish that rewards those who want to get down with a profound, oceanic meatiness.
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