The doctrine of seasonal correctness is as ingrained in the collective restaurant psyche, these days, as linen napkins, pre-dinner cocktails, and superfluous baskets of bread. Modern big-city diners expect a bounty of ramps on their early springtime menus, sweet peas and shellfish in summertime, and plenty of hand-foraged mushrooms and humanely slaughtered pork products in the fall. Now the owners of the newish establishment Park Avenue Autumn have taken these fashionable orthodoxies and turned them into a uniquely kitschy, singularly New York experience. Their restaurant (which was originally the Park Avenue Café) isn’t a restaurant in the usual monochromatic way. It’s a kind of revolving, seasonal diorama, replete with menus that change every three months or so, rotating waitstaff outfits (although the waiters themselves remain more or less the same), and even a changing décor, courtesy of the fashionable downtown restaurant-design firm AvroKO.
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