Brooklyn was late out of the gate when it came to ramen. Manhattan had more than a score of spots long before the borough of Kings chimed in. And when it did, the places strove to be as nontraditional as possible, turning the pale wheat noodles into a form of culinary auterism. In Prospect Heights, Chuko pioneered a ghostly white broth served in limited quantities like a private-label scotch, while Williamsburg's Ramen Yebisu introduced a bowl that, with more seafood than noodles, constituted a sort of Japanese bouillabaisse. Weirdest of all was the so-called deli ramen at Dassara in Carroll Gardens: chicken broth like a Jewish mom might make, bobbing tiny matzo balls and floating slices of pastrami. Oy!
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