Shin bones filled with snails and hot marrow. Slabs of blood pudding. Cast-iron buckets of beef broth and onion. Here are the dishes that have seen us through the darkest days of winter. The comfort food of another time and place, gut-warming and animal-rich, with a weight that can anesthetize the aching body and lullaby the racing mind. Sure, there are pills to pop for this, but it's more fun to settle in for a long lunch at M. Wells Dinette in Long Island City.
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