Restaurant review, The Greenhouse, London W1.

The Greenhouse 27a Hay’s Mews, London W1J 5NY
Contact: 020 7499 3331 www.greenhouserestaurant.co.uk
Price: Six courses: £90

The Greenhouse itself, and its fans, are fond of saying how unlike London it feels, walking through its elegantly beshrubbed ante-garden, down its fancy decking, into a lobby that could be the international welcome mat of any grand hotel in the world, from Malaysia to Milan. I don't think it's a compliment. I don't see the point of a place where there is deliberately no sense of place.

B thinks the bar looks like a torture chamber, so we proceed directly to the table and thence to disagree on most matters: I like the service, he finds it fussy; I think the food is good, and great at times, he finds it predictable and at times over-done. If I were you, I would listen to me, but don't listen to either of us until you have at least £150 to drop on dinner for two.

The amuse-bouche were entrancing. There was a tiny tomato meringue on a stick, devilishly cute, extremely tomatoey, and not sweet, though I cannot fathom how it held its shape without sugar. A smooth pebble the colour of brick was 'Greek salad', distilled to its essence – a flavour bomb of olive and feta in a skein of tomato. I had the tasting menu (£90 for six courses) and he had the game-season tasting menu (£110 for seven courses). There is also an à la carte (£75 for three courses).

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