Restaurant review, The Ubiquitous Chip.

The Ubiquitous Chip, 12 Ashton lane, Glasgow, G12 8SJ

Contact: 0141 334 5007; ubiquitouschip.co.uk

Set lunch: £15.95 for two courses, £19.95 for three. Three course à la carte with wine and coffee: about £60 per head

Of all time-honoured subcategories of catering establishment, the tiniest and most precious is the ancient one, which I have just invented, officially known as Narnia Restaurants. So rare are these wondrous self-contained little kingdoms, into which you very occasionally and amazedly stumble as if through a wormhole into a parallel world, that until recently I could think of only two.

One, by the name of LMNT, styles itself “London’s most eccentric restaurant”, and given that in Hackney we found ourselves sat in a giant amphora staring bemusedly at a satirically tumescent version of Michelangelo’s David, who could quarrel with that? The other is the fabled Oslo Court, that paean to the colour peach and champion of early Seventies bourgeois cooking accessed through a dingy cloakroom in a block of service flats opposite Regent’s Park.

Both are warmly recommended to lovers of the recherché, but so far as inducing the reflex exclamation “Oh my great-aunt Ada, we appear to have slipped through a tear in the fabric of the space-time continuum”, both take a back seat to Glasgow’s Ubiquitous Chip. Although long intrigued by this local legend because of the name, I had not a clue of what awaited. It feels so wrong to spoil the surprise, in fact, that anyone tempted to visit for the first time is advised, in the manner of the BBC sportscaster with the football scores, to look away now.

Read more at telegraph.co.uk