Restaurant review, Michael Nadra, London.

This week's review comes with its own soundtrack – the bass-driven "I Shoulda Loved Ya", Narada Michael Walden's 1979 disco hit. Damn, that song is catchy. From the moment I booked a table at Restaurant Michael Nadra in Primrose Hill, it lodged as an earworm; I was still humming it while I waited for my guest in the restaurant's Martini bar.

Yes, a Martini bar – in Primrose Hill. Somehow that feels all wrong; like finding a Spearmint Rhino in Chipping Norton. But these are tumultuous times for the bien-pensant north London enclave. Once the bohemian home of writers and intellectuals, the area is turning into Notting Hill-on-Hill, with long-established shops being forced out by cafés serving cupcakes to yummy mummies. You can't call it gentrification; Primrose Hill was never exactly rough. More celebrification, as residents such as Jamie Oliver and Gwen Stefani replace the likes of the Milibands, and the bankish see off the bookish.

Now the neighbourhood has a glossy new restaurant to match its glossy new residents. Restaurant Michael Nadra occupies the canalside premises of what used to be Sardo Canale, a Sicilian joint that felt too formal and expensive to function as the perfect local.

That has now been replaced by somewhere even more formal and expensive. RMN is the second opening from a young British chef who has worked under Bruce Poole and Marcus Wareing, and opened his first solo venture in Chiswick in 2005. How it's possible to have your name over the door of two restaurants at opposite ends of town, implying that you're cooking at both, is a mystery.

Read more at http://www.independent.co.uk