Benny Siddu (Volare) is behind this spendy River North steakhouse, a den of prime Allen Brothers meat and seafood with Jonathan Lane (Four Seasons) in the kitchen. The setting is as old-school as it gets --- comfortable booths, dim, clubby environs and a piano player on weekends --- though the repertoire is somewhat redefined, as evidenced in the serious cocktail program, showily plated crab-lobster Louie and grilled romaine. The dry-aged steaks really are all that --- tender, marbled and full of flavor. An Alaskan halibut T-bone and jumbo sea scallops with spinach pappardelle and creamy garlic sauce also are available. A well-traveled wine list and pasta sides, including spring pea tortelloni, complete the very posh, special occasion experience.
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