Chef Tony Mantuano is the architect of this super-luxe Italian restaurant. The food, which has a contemporary spin, is splendid; it's also expensive. However, when making most everything from scratch (pasta included), the difference is noted and notable from competitors. Seafood dishes are especially remarkable, as is his delicate, hand-rolled gnocchi, which may arrive with ricotta sauce and black truffles. Another winner, when offered, is the veal-filled agnolotti with fennel pollen and crispy veal breast. This is quite the affair for small-portioned fare, so expect to digest a tab of $100-plus per person. If you're really indulging, go for the seven-course tasting menu (starting at $145 per person, $235 for wine pairings), and be wowed by dishes like pumpernickel crusted salmon with fennel kraut purée. The wine list offers interesting, rarely seen Italian selections. Accordingly, the cheese selection is staggering and the desserts --- perhaps huckleberry brioche custard with poppy seeds, mint, passion fruit sorbetto and Italian meringue --- a dream. It’s a small price to pay, many say, since the view from the tiered dining room provides amazing panoramas of Oak Street Beach and the lake.
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