If, by some miracle, you’ve missed the endless comfort-food fads and outer-borough dining boomlets that have turned New York’s culinary world on its head in the past decade, I suggest you get yourself to Andrew Carmellini’s boisterous new Soho restaurant, the Dutch, for a refresher course. You’ll find whiskery barkeeps who mix drinks with artisanal bitters made from celery and peaches, and keep enough bourbons behind the bar (27) to satisfy the most righteous Brooklyn bourbon snob. You will find a much-hyped $17 house burger (lunch, brunch, and late nights only) and iterations of formerly trendy southern classics like fried chicken and fried green tomatoes. Ingredients are hailed as “local,” and the house “white boy” pork ribs come with a very un-Dutch mix of hoisin sauce and scallions (thank you, Mr. Chang). In case you can’t get into Minetta Tavern up the street, Carmellini even offers his own version of côte de boeuf ($98 for two), purveyed by that frenetic butcher to the stars, Pat LaFrieda.
“I feel like I’m in a hipster theme park,” Mrs. Platt declared as we surveyed the network of cramped, clamorous, speakeasy-style bars and dining rooms (formerly the Cub Room, on the corner of Sullivan and Prince Streets), which Carmellini and his partners, Josh Pickard (Lure Fishbar, Chinatown Brasserie) and Luke Ostrom (Locanda Verde), have remodeled in clubby tones of brown. There’s a low-ceilinged dining room in the back, and two bars in front, one designed for the consumption of Manhattan’s original locavore delicacy, oysters. They’re served on the half-shell and fried in doll-size sliders, and you can complement them, depending on the day and time, with platters of soft scrambled eggs and smoked sable, silky sweet corn soup, and pleasingly messy “sloppy duck” sandwiches garnished with peanuts and mint.
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