Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Restaurant Review, Everest.


Everest has maintained its perch above Chicago's skyline for over 25 years; the spectacular view from the 40th floor never gets old. Evolved décor brought sleek silver fixtures and contemporary artwork on the walls. The changes made sense, the easier feel analogous to chef-owner Jean Joho's personal vision. Chef Joho's Alsatian roots dot the menu. One night, Michigan chestnut and celery root velouté with duck confit and brioche croutons appears first. On another visit, it may be home-smoked salmon. Then it's on to Alaskan black cod pavé accented with hazelnut brown butter emulsion, or dry-aged New York steak, sauce foyot and Alsace potato gnocchi. Other dishes to ponder may include roasted rack of lamb, and tender venison surrounded by a wild huckleberry jus. Risottos distinguish themselves by their rich and creamy mouth-feel, as in a carnaroli version with fricassée of petite gris snail, Riesling and fines herbs. The fact is that the food, even through seasonal changes, is never without creativity and unquestionable goodness. Desserts are no less artful or enticing, perhaps a chocolate tasting or a Grand Marnier soufflé with orange coulis and Tahitian vanilla glacé. The wine list has one of the broadest selections of Alsatian wines outside of Alsace. Impeccable service adds to the feeling of luxury.

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