Monday, May 20, 2013

Restaurant review, Now, That’s Mex-Italian.



As anyone who’s ever peeked inside a New York City restaurant kitchen knows, the majority of meals, from high French to low delicatessen, are cooked by Latin Americans. And as anyone who’s ever flipped through a Zagat guide knows, Italian is everybody’s favorite flavor. So it’s surprising that it’s taken this long to encounter the collision of Italian and Latino on the plate. The Underground Gourmet, no stranger to peeking past kitchen doors and flipping through Zagats, has noticed the stirrings of this new culinary cross-pollination at two similarly named, like-minded restaurants, Miranda, in Williamsburg, and Matilda, in the East Village.

The two-month-old Miranda is a mom-and-pop shop done up in the simple style of a neighborhood trattoria. Sasha Rodriguez, the Queens-bred daughter of a Dominican father and Irish-American mother, runs the kitchen, while her fiancé, Mauricio Miranda, of Guerrero, Mexico, works the dining room like a young Silvano Marchetto—greeting guests as if they were long lost relatives, recommending bottles of (often organic) wine, and occasionally breaking into a little cha-cha-cha dance whenever the joy of owning and operating a restaurant with the woman he loves becomes too much.

Read more at http://nymag.com/

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