As Brooklyn’s long and storied pizza tradition continues to attract new practitioners of the doughy art, the question arises in the mind of the Underground Gourmet: What is Brooklyn-style pizza? Is it the lumpen and glistening slice, as perfected by Di Fara? The tender Neapolitanish pie at Totonno’s? The cheese-under-sauce slab of L&B? There is no easy answer, as Domino’s discovered a year and a half ago, when its attempt to channel the borough’s crust-loving culinary spirit was met with the kind of loathing and contempt usually reserved for serial killers and dogfight impresarios.
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