More than ever, in their quest for the increasingly fragmented, ever-elusive consumer dollar, restaurateurs need a specific target demographic in mind. Or so it occurred to me as I wedged myself into one of the stylish, pygmy-size black-top banquettes at Smith’s, Danny Abrams’s stylish, pygmy-size new venture on Macdougal Street. I’d already enjoyed a cocktail at the bar, a diminutive jewel box of a space containing only eight bar stools, a tasteful Oriental throw rug on the floor, and walls covered with crushed sky-blue velvet. Out in the mini dining room, the mini-tables were filled with animated parties of diners, many of them female, happily chatting in the soft, carefully calibrated light. At one of the banquettes sat a magazine food editor, a regular judge on the reality series Top Chef. And across from her sat the living embodiment of possibly the most desired demographic of all. “Do you know who that is?” said one of the hulking gentlemen at my table. “That’s Anna Wintour’s personal assistant.”
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