If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, then Danny Meyer should find a good deal to be flattered about at Irving Mill, a new restaurant in his old Union Square neighborhood. Not very long ago, the tall, gothically imposing space on East 16th Street housed a mostly deserted New American establishment called Candela. Now bales of hay and a wooden trough filled with pomegranates grace the entrance. The interior is covered in folksy shades of brown (brown rafters, brown wood floors, brownish dried-flower arrangements) and infused with the warm sense of bonhomie Meyer has cultivated so successfully in so many of his restaurants. An ancient millstone in the center of the room acts alternately as a bar and a platform for a decorative collection of gourds. The relentlessly mirthful waiters sport jaunty suspenders. Pink-cheeked locals swill frosty microbrews at the Tap Room up front, and a quick scan of the menu reveals a familiar multitude of rustic country favorites, like short ribs, braised rabbit, and stone-ground grits.
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