The spate of northern Chinese restaurants crowding into town has made the gastronomy of the world's most populous country the most exciting in Gotham. While Flushing now has nearly a score of places representing such far-flung locales as Tianjin, Qingdao, Lanzhou, Henan, Xi'an, Dongbei, and Beijing itself, Manhattan—still in the thrall of Cantonese and Fujianese food—has followed slowly, like a wayward child. Starting 11 years ago, dumpling stalls began appearing along Eldridge and Allen streets, endearing themselves to immigrants, students, and foodies by providing their opulent, pork-stuffed purses at the bargain-basement price of five for a dollar. There was nary a grain of rice in sight. Sesame flatbreads amazed diners weaned exclusively on over-rice stir-fries, and what a contrast the thick-skinned dumplings made to the delicate har gow of the southern-style dim sum parlors!
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