You scour the city looking for the perfect logs of deliciousness, but something is always wrong. They're rubbery with a plasticky snap. You detect a lingering freezer burn. The batons arrive overly greasy, weighed down in batter. You lament the watery marinara sauce to your friends.
But then, after nearly giving up hope, you meet the perfect specimen: pliant and gooey with a whisper of crunch, yet astonishingly creamy and milky. Your love affair begins at Parm, the new spin-off of Torrisi Italian Specialties, located next door to the original Mulberry Street restaurant in Nolita. Chef-owners Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi's sequel is more laid-back, with a vintage coffee-shop look. Tiny Formica tables are clustered around an open kitchen in the center of the restaurant, which is decked out in 1960s cocktail-print wallpaper.
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