Think Alice Waters and Dan Barber were the original artists of the locavore movement? Try again. It arguably started centuries ago with the Japanese. With ornate ceramic tableware as canvases, their craft took shape in the kaiseki meal. This procession of dishes aimed to capture Japanese cuisine's five tastes (salty, bitter, sour, sweet, and umami, or savory) and showcase foods from the mountains, sea, rivers, and fields. All while deploying only the most seasonal of ingredients.
Brushstroke, a noteworthy new collaboration between David Bouley and the Tsuji Culinary Institute of Osaka, marks one of the few spots in New York City where you can enjoy such feasts. Located in Tribeca—as if D.B. would shack up anywhere else—the restaurant occupies the former digs of his Austrian hot spot Danube (and briefly Secession). Stripped of their former gilt and opulence, the environs are now decked out in reclaimed timber, stone, salvaged steel, and a muted color palette designed to keep your eyes transfixed on the plates. But make sure to steal glimpses at the chefs perfecting their craft while you sit at the long L-shaped bar—a real treat, given the nearly unnatural serenity pervading the open kitchen.
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