Restaurants focusing on a sole foodstuff have taken New York by storm. The Meatball Shop and Meatball Factory offer orbs to packed houses. Queens Kickshaw, Melt Shop, and Little Muenster perfect the art of the gooey cheese sandwich. And Tommy Lasagna sells its namesake in eight versions. But Mas (la grillade), a new offshoot of Mas (farmhouse), poses the question of whether a restaurant can successfully champion a single cooking style.
Restaurant review, http://www.villagevoice.com/
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