When the first gastropubs hit town, they mainly cobbled their menus together out of goosed-up American and Italian fare, rather than reworking colorful Englishisms like bubble and squeak, toad in the hole, Welsh rarebit, and spotted dick. But just as the institution was being remade in Gotham's image, a few real U.K. gastropubs managed to sneak into the city, including Ulysses and the Breslin. Now along comes Jones Wood Foundry, secreted on a side street in Yorkville, and it might be the most perfect facsimile gastropub of all. A project of an English chef and a French co-owner, the name acknowledges one of the neighborhood's earliest monikers—Jones Wood. Prior to the Civil War, its rolling hills were the site of picnic grounds, beer gardens, and donkey rides for pent-up urbanites living to the south. As the restaurant's website informs us, the building first saw use as a hardware store and foundry belonging to the Eberhardt family, who still own the property. Clearly, the place's identity has been carefully groomed to appeal to proud neighborhood diners.
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