Thursday, August 1, 2013

Restaurant review, Zabb Elee--Slurp That Pig Blood.

Or play it cool with some larb.
Damn right I do. I'd come to this East Village offshoot of the Queens original to scorch my taste buds with the capsaicin flames of Thailand's Isan cuisine. Unlike at most Thai restaurants in New York—and especially Manhattan—you'll actually find the heat you crave here. What you won't encounter: drunken noodles or the cream-cheese abomination otherwise known as crab Rangoon. Instead, the menu traverses a maze of sour, tangy, and piquant flavors, each brighter than the next.

This vibrancy comes as a surprise because Le Da Nang, a decidedly bland and mediocre Vietnamese joint, formerly occupied this space on a bustling block of Second Avenue. Although the menu has been completely overhauled, the ownership and staff remain the same. Ditto the casual faux-colonial décor: pale white banquettes and walls, geometric wooden mirrors, and an ornate tile floor. Incongruous, sure, though at least Siam was close to the former French Indochina. The blaring Top 40 tunes also don't help the ambience—but who doesn't have a secret soft spot for Katy Perry?

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