Restaurant review Bo London, 4 Mill Street, London.

It's all gone a bit Eyes Wide Shut. I'm sitting, head tipped back, with a porcelain speculum angled into my mouth, from which a pale, foamy liquid is supposed to be flowing. A small, intent group of men in black have gathered round to urge me on. Gripping my silver beaker by its tiny handles, I tip it even higher, like a clumsy toddler with a sucky cup. Just when it seems the whole lot will pour out over my chin, a thin flow of liquid drizzles out and the watching men sigh and smile and move away. Welcome to the whisky sour, served Alvin Leung-style. And to the fun and games of Bo London, the most exciting restaurant you'll probably never go to.

You may have read about this place, and its flamboyant owner, Leung, the self-styled Demon Chef from Hong Kong. He gave a pre-launch interview to this newspaper, talking about how he wants to take diners to the border of comfort before pulling them back, like bungee jumpers. Self-taught, Leung is famous in Hong Kong as a TV chef and for his Michelin-starred restaurant, Bo Innovation, which introduced the techniques of molecular gastronomy to the Asian repertoire – though he rejects the m-word, preferring to call his style "X-treme Chinese".

If I had only read that Independent article a little more closely before I went to Bo London, I would have realised that not only is Leung's food X-treme, it's also X-pensive. Much more so than I was X-pecting. There's one sure-fire way of producing a bungee-jump lurch in a customer's stomach, and that's to give them a menu with only two options – a 15-course 'Chef's Menu' for £138, or the cheaper 'Ode to Great Britain', at £98 for 12 courses. It certainly worked for me. My whole life flashed before my eyes, even as our waiter served our (reckless, it now seemed) cocktails, and strongly recommended that we really, really should try the Chef's Menu…

Read more at http://www.independent.co.uk