Restaurant review, Georgina's, London SW13.

Georgina’s 56 Barnes High Street, London SW13 9LF
Contact: 020 8166 5559 www.georginasrestaurants.co.uk
Price: Three courses: £29.95

Georgina's, a new all-day delicatessen-cum-café-cum-restaurant established by Nicola Horlick, is currently just in Barnes Village, but you can smell the ambition for something more chainy (and not just because the website has already pluralised 'restaurants'). It's rather white and already full of ladies who lunch.

There is, apparently, a more varied menu at both lunch- and dinnertime, but on this particular Wednesday only the all-day choices were offered. We laboured to try everything we could find, but quite a lot of it tasted the same. Consider this not so much a criticism as a warning: I think this is a low-fat restaurant that doesn't openly say so. I could be wrong – we didn't go to a lab afterwards and have our lipids tested. But it had that distinct lack of oomph that I remember from the time I tried cottage cheese.

There's a section called 'salad' that reminded me of the chef Rowley Leigh saying that he went off serving salads when people started expecting to find great hunks of meat in them. 'A steak salad!' he scoffed. 'What on earth is a steak salad?'

So we had the leek and gorgonzola salad (£6), the fish pâté salad (£6) that was, in fact, fish pâté, and the squash salad with toasted seeds (£6, though you could have all three for £12, as we did. Presumably they'd been scaled down a bit).

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