Restaurant review. Le Caprice, London SW1.

Le Caprice Arlington House, Arlington Street, London SW1A 1RJ
Contact: 020 7629 2239 www.le-caprice.co.uk
Price: Three courses: £31.05

With art deco mirrors and chrome, a long sweep of a bar, 1970s bistro chairs and the odd porthole door, Le Caprice marches to such a resolute 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' drum that an iconoclast might want to break something just to watch them try.

To walk among the regulars is like a life watched on a high-definition screen – everybody seems so familiar, so probably-somewhat-famous, that their very features appear sharper and bolder than ordinary people's. We were given the dunce's table – right by the kitchen door, at the waiter's muster point – but I didn't take that as the chill message that our name wasn't enough to get us into the middle of the room. Rather, I suspect the Saturday lunch crowd here is in every week; they've probably had the same table rebooked for 15 years.

If you were going to choose any restaurant to be more faithful to than you would a spouse, this immutable, mellow place would be it. But it's not entirely immutable – they have repainted (apparently) and added a brunch menu (read 'eggs'). This is halfway to a revolution, in Piccadilly.

It's such a romantic meal, isn't it, brunch? Who could fail to be cast back to those heady days of courtship when one meal runs into another and you have booze for almost-breakfast?
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