Brasserie Zédel, London, 20 Sherwood Street London, W1F 7ED
Contact: 020 7734 4888; brasseriezedel.com
Price: Three courses à la carte with wine, about £30 per head; prix fixe £8.75 for two courses, £11.25 for three; Formule (three courses with house wine, water and coffee) £19.75
The sooner this fantasy passes the better, because people have been sectioned for less, but today I find myself dreaming about the presence, on a very remote branch of the family tree, of a Texan oil baron… one of those Stetson-clad braggarts of mirthful myth whose auto-response on being introduced to anything, however grandiose, is to sneer at its weeniness. “You call that lil’ biddy Eiffel thang a tower?” we may imagine him drawling on his first trip to Paris. “Hell, boy, back in Dallas we’d call it a salt cellar.”
The sole explanation for this alarming daydream is the desire to take that fifth cousin 19 times removed to Brasserie Zédel, and defy him to be other than bedazzled by its scale and lustre. Buried far beneath Piccadilly Circus, a bit like an early Bond villain’s underground lair — without the boiler-suited drones fussing over nuclear warheads — this is the latest venture from Jeremy King and Chris Corbin, our finest old-school restaurateurs. Like its vaunted stablemates The Wolseley and The Delaunay, Zédel is named after a long defunct luxury car, perhaps in part to invoke a lost age of elegance. Unlike them, it pulls off that uncanny trick by feeding punters in surroundings of mesmerising opulence for so little that, while the location dictates a largely touristic clientele, the one overseas visitor not being targeted is a Texan who uses a bunch of $100 bills to light his cigar.
Read more at http://www.telegraph.co.uk
Read more at http://www.telegraph.co.uk
No comments:
Post a Comment