Restaurant review, The Foxhunter, Nantyderry.

The Foxhunter, Nantyderry, Abergavenny, Monmouthshire, NP7 9DN

Contact: 01873 881101; thefoxhunter.com Three courses

Price: With wine: £60-£70 per head; set lunch: £22.95 for two courses, £27.95 for three

The Welsh do like to keep a welcome in the hillside, not to mention the vale. “But this…” observed my cousin Nick as the car drew up outside a handsome, Grade II-listed, stone-clad building nestling contentedly in a valley on the edge of the Brecon Beacons, “… this is something else.”

From within came the kind of blast of raucous merriment that is just about the last thing one expects to find in bucolic Britain on a Saturday lunchtime. “We have a 70th birthday party today,” explained a waitress as we walked in. “It’s a little bit rowdy, but it should be OK. No dancing on the tables or knickers on heads.”

To those who deem respectful formality a crucial component of the Michelin experience, I cannot in all conscience recommend the single-starred Foxhunter. Those who prefer warmth and relaxedness, and even slightly startling intimacy, however, are urged to book at once.

“Have you helped yourselves to menus?” asked the manager, Lisa, whom we would soon learn is married to chef Matt Tebbutt, a regular presence on television cookery shows. No, we said over drinks by the bar, someone gave them to us. “Ah, you’ve met Auntie Jo already.” Auntie Jo? “The nice, menopausal waitress.” Fears that AJ, who we would also discover is married to Lisa’s brother, might be umbraged by so personal a revelation were quickly allayed. “I hope you’ve not been too cold with the front door open,” said AJ. “It’s my hot flushes, you see. I need the fresh air.”

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