Restaurant review, FM Mangal, 54 Camberwell Church Street, London.

I suppose it was inevitable. We've had the posh burger, the couture hot dog, mac and cheese deluxe – and now kebabs are getting the attention of foodies. Two enterprising young men, Oliver Thring and James Ramsden, writers and bloggers with sharp eyes and a fork into every emerging trend, have started Kebab Kitchen – a roving grill serving lamb and chicken of good provenance with ritzy accompaniments.

I tried their kebabs the other rainy Bank Holiday and what they lack in blistering heat (a wobbly mobile heater) they make up for in zingy flavours (smoked salt, red cabbage with pomegranate molasses...). They admit they're on a learning curve, so before I go back with my critic hat on, I thought I'd remind myself what an old-school, unfashionable kebab is like.

Will, a man of my acquaintance who likes good food and Northern football in equal measure, reckons FM Mangal in south London is the business. Since he lives in north London, I'm listening. Only a real aficionado would cross a city for a bit of grilled lamb in a flatbread. But what's really got him salivating at the mere mention of Mangal is the special pickle juice that accompanies a pre-starter (now, there's posh) of char-grilled onion. The ingredients of this liquid are, apparently, a closely guarded secret. That's piqued my interest enough.

Read more at http://www.independent.co.uk