Except for one errant uptown restaurant and a proliferating number of highly profitable burger stands, the parameters of Danny Meyer’s culinary Yoknapatawpha County are well known. Its physical borders run ten blocks or so around the epicenter of Danny Land, which is the Union Square Greenmarket and his original flagship establishment, the Union Square Cafe. Its interior terroir is, if anything, even more well defined. In a Danny Meyer restaurant, you will find a casual “tavern” area up front designed primarily for eating instead of drinking. Once at your table, you will be swarmed by platoons of solicitous, well-drilled waiters dressed in cheerfully colored cotton button-down shirts and a standard-issue Danny Land bistro apron. Your menu will be laced with sophistication in a comforting, user-friendly way, and no matter what kind of food you order (Indian at Tabla, haute cuisine at Eleven Madison Park, haute barnyard at Gramercy Tavern), dinner will proceed without a hitch, inside a cocoon humming with the proprietor’s almost ruthlessly efficient brand of hospitality.
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