If the careers of prominent chefs can be divided into epochal stages, like the careers of playwrights, or metal bands, or ego-mad painters, then this recently ended decade was an eventful time for Tom Colicchio. First came his formative “Apprentice” period, which culminated when he became partner and executive chef at Danny Meyer’s Gramercy Tavern. Then came the breakout “Craft” period during the early aughts, when Colicchio opened his first trailblazing restaurant (he now has eight), published his first glossy cookbook (he now has four), and began to establish what many righteous Greenmarket chefs secretly crave in this multiplatform era: a formidable national brand. The Craft period was succeeded, in dizzying succession, by the “Spinoff” period (Craft begat Craftbar, which begat a slew of baby ’wichcrafts), the Go-Go “Vegas” period (a grandiose Craftsteak opened in Vegas in ’02, followed by a second giant steak joint in the meatpacking district in ’06), and the Hollywood “Celebrity” period, which began with the first season of Top Chef, four years ago, and continues to this day.
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