Quirkiness can be an endearing quality in small children and certain house pets, but it doesn’t always translate to the world of restaurants. I’m one of those mirthless souls who, upon hearing the imprecations rumbling from the kitchen at Kenny Shopsin’s famously odd pack-rat West Village restaurant, quickly paid my bill and left as quietly as I could. I had a similar reaction to the popular East Village wine bar Terroir. The staff affected a languid hipster hauteur, the menu was uneven, and the wine list managed to be zany and condescending at the same time. Recently, Terroir’s chef, Marco Canora, and his partner, Paul Grieco, opened a second, more ambitious Terroir in Tribeca. After avoiding it for several months, I dropped in for a taste of the vaunted meatball sub (the ninth best sandwich in the city, according to our own Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld). Lately, I’ve been dropping in a lot more, for the other excellent sandwiches, for the bar snacks, and even for the occasional quirky pour of wine.
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