It wasn’t so long ago that assorted gasbag food pundits and jaded old-media restaurant critics were confidently pronouncing the death of the high-end fish restaurant in Manhattan. And why not? The $25 lobster roll replaced caviar as the city’s gourmet seafood dish of choice years ago. And with expense accounts imploding faster than global fishing stocks, who wants to pay half a day’s wages for a taste of blue marlin, say, flown in via jumbo jet from the coast of Peru? Plenty of people, apparently. In fact, new big-ticket seafood palaces have been popping up at an alarming rate all over town. David Burke has Fishtail on the Upper East Side. Jeffrey Chodorow just opened Ed’s Chowder House near Lincoln Center. And over the protests of a few lonely critics (like me), Marea, Michael White’s extravagantly expensive, highly stylized Italian seafood palace, continues to draw hordes of rhapsodic diners in midtown.
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