Sushi snobs have their Masa, rotund Italians have Mario and Mike White, and the Greenmarket aristocrats have Dan Barber, Thomas Keller, and the ubiquitous Tom Colicchio. So you can forgive certain members of the city’s long-suffering, increasingly cranky band of Chinese-food nuts for treating Susur Lee, who landed in our midst a couple of months ago from Canada by way of Hong Kong, as that most elusive and longed-for New York food demigod: the Chinese superstar chef. And Lee, who runs two successful restaurants in Toronto, has certainly embraced the role with gusto. He has chiseled, telegenic Bruce Lee features and a long warrior’s ponytail. He’s enlisted the services of an aggressive PR agent (“the Nobu of Toronto” is the phrase I heard), has at least one glossy cookbook to his credit, and has made numerous celebrity-chef TV appearances, including an epic encounter on Iron Chef America (the theme was pork), where he fought the mighty Bobby Flay to a draw.
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