So, what do you do for an encore if you’re Michael White? Over the past three years, no chef in the city has been on a more impressive run than the great pasta savant from the wilds of Wisconsin. While his competitors in the upper echelons of Italian cooking have been opening populist food halls and desperately concocting recipes for meatball sliders, White and his partners have been launching one ambitious high-profile hit restaurant after the next. First came the Northern Italian establishment Alto, which White turned, more or less overnight, into one of the top five Italian restaurants in town; then came the popular Tudor City pasta destination Convivio. Last year, in the teeth of the Great Recession, when restaurants all over were furiously battening down the hatches, they opened the grandiose (and, except by me, lavishly praised) midtown seafood palace Marea, where White demonstrated his facility with more-refined ingredients like lobster tails, dainty fish crudi, and caviar.
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