These people are definitely not from the neighborhood,” one of the weary old fressers at my table observed, as we sat down to dinner at Daniel Boulud’s boisterous new restaurant, DBGB Kitchen and Bar, which opened a couple of months ago on the Bowery. The neighborhood in question used to be called skid row, of course, but those days are long gone. Boulud’s latest experiment in downmarket dining (the name is a ham-fisted play on the vanished Bowery punk institution CBGB) occupies the ground floor of a new residential building made of steel and glass. Its long, glittery façade is etched with random quotes from erudite foodies through the ages (Hemingway, Samuel Johnson, Proust), as are the mirrored walls of the front “tavern” room, which was routinely jammed, on the evenings I dropped by, with groups of antic food-magazine editors and flush-faced bank interns gobbling fancy hot dogs and eagerly swigging flagons of artisanal Belgian beer.
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