Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Restaurant review, High Thai.


Is this really Harold’s restaurant?” exclaimed one of my slightly starstruck out-of-town guests as we settled down to dinner at Kin Shop, the deceptively unassuming “contemporary Thai” restaurant that opened a month or so ago among the jumble of nail salons and Korean delis on lower Sixth Avenue in the Village. The Harold in question is Harold Dieterle, whom my guest (along with millions of other Top Chef viewers) knows as the original (and easily most talented) winner to emerge from that Bravo megafranchise. But despite Dieterle’s triumph in the histrionic realm of reality TV, there’s never been anything garish or self-promoting about his cooking or style. Like his first West Village restaurant, Perilla, Kin Shop exudes an unassuming, carefully calibrated, even neighborly feeling. The modest space is colored in soothing shades of jade. Nothing costs more than $25. And about the closest thing you’ll find to a glamorous signature cocktail is a glass of cool artisanal gin splashed with house-brined Thai pickle juice.

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