Hopelessly unhip since the late ’80s, the battle-scarred French bistro seems to be making a comeback. Returning to Gotham in triumph are such Gallic commonplaces as steak frites, moules frites, frisée salad, pork rillettes, steak tartare, and—of course—French onion soup swimming in gobs of gooey Gruyère. The bistro moderne makes us remember why New Yorkers loved these restaurants in the first place, for their sense of intimacy and coziness, instantly familiar menus, reduced volume levels that let you carry on a romantic conversation, and wine prices that encouraged you to think in terms of bottles rather than glasses. Eschewing Manhattan, these new places first appeared in Brooklyn nabes like Park Slope, Williamsburg, Fort Greene, Cobble Hill, and Carroll Gardens. Finally, they seem to be seeping back into Manhattan. A decade of chefs trained in cooking schools has had its effect, and the menus aren’t quite the same collection of Parisian and regional French fare anymore. American and Italian dishes have been added—to great effect—while touching all the sustainably sourced and locavoric bases modern diners demand.
Read more at http://www.villagevoice.com/
No comments:
Post a Comment