Some people must actually enjoy the anonymity of airport and hotel restaurants, or there wouldn't be so many of them. Ryan Bingham, George Clooney's character in Up in the Air, comes to mind. Guys like Bingham put up with bland décor and unrealistic prices as a marker of their high-flying lives. If the food's OK, so much the better. But that's hardly the point. Bingham would probably have a ball at Junoon, a new, upscale Indian restaurant in the Flatiron District, which has about as much character as an executive lounge in the New Delhi airport.
"Junoon" means "passion" or "obsession" in Hindi, and attention to detail certainly comes through in the service. If only so much enthusiasm had gone into the monochromatic beige décor. Yes, there's the "Junoon walk," a 50-foot passage anchored by a reflecting pool (which has since been filled with rocks, perhaps because the scum atop the water was unseemly). But couldn't the management have at least situated the unique glass-encased "spice room" in the spacious dining room? Instead, the chamber containing all the restaurant's seasonings and spice blends is located next to the restrooms downstairs. Skimp on the drinking and you might miss it completely.
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