As with other great food cities—Paris, say, or Hong Kong—Rome's most profound gastronomic triumphs often lie buried, like ancient ruins, beneath a welter of dishes imported from other regions of the country, and other parts of the world. Sure you can get great pizza, pesto, caponata, and even shish kebabs and sushi in the Eternal City, but what is the real essence of its cooking?
Testaccio seeks to answer that question. This newish Italian lurks in Long Island City, just off the first stop on the 7 train. Billing itself as a modern Roman trattoria, the place takes its name from a neighborhood in southern Rome anchored by Monte Testaccio, a mountain composed of garbage left by the ancient Romans, the site of innumerable archaeological digs. More recently, the neighborhood has been home to a working-class population famous for its nightclubs, butcher shops, and restaurants specializing in some of the city's funkier meat delights.
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