Montreal's Au Pied de Cochon (APDC) has had an inordinate influence on Gotham gastronomy lately. Its hog-happy, lard-intensive menu transforms every part of the pig into mousses, grills, croquettes, roasts, salads, terrines, sausages, tarts, and fry-ups. Vegetables, fish, and poultry are kept to a minimum, while tongue, marrow, sweetbreads, and trotters from an ark's worth of animals form another of the restaurant's fatty obsessions. Famously, a huge lobe of foie gras settles like a storm cloud over the craggy landscape of the restaurant's poutine. (Insert your own cardiology joke here.) Locally, the Breslin's April Bloomfield isn't our only chef to have knocked off an APDC dish or two, but more recently two Quebecois gastronomes—who both cheffed under APDC's culinary director, Martin Picard—carry the tribute further. At Long Island City's M. Wells, Hugue Dufour has regrooved several of the Montreal restaurant's dishes during the nine months the diner's been open, while Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly has lately been installed in the West Village with a similar agenda. His new restaurant, Fedora, is situated just north of the intersection of West 11th and West 4th streets—if you don't live nearby, you might have to hire a street urchin to help you find this paradoxical corner.
Read more at http://www.villagevoice.com/
No comments:
Post a Comment