In the knows-no-bounds sea of pasta peddlers in New York, how does a new Italian restaurant stand out? Quite often it doesn’t—but that doesn’t mean it’s a dud. Take Spasso, a West Village newcomer, for example. The food, while not mind-blowing, will happily feed you, and the space offers a quaint, unpretentious setting—rare in today’s West Village. Welcome to your secret neighborhood spot that everyone now knows about. Spasso, which means “amusement” in the native tongue, doesn’t quite fit the “rustic Italian chic” mold championed by recent additions Osteria Morini and Ciano. It’s more the classic trattoria gone modern. Think marble and mirrors and leather-backed chairs. Cozy up on a banquette or—if you love the schadenfreude of watching cooks slave in front of hot stoves—at the secluded bar in the back overlooking the semi-open kitchen.
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