Let's say you craved Chinese food of the kind snagged from carryouts when you were a kid. But, somewhat absurdly, you wanted to enjoy it in a bistro setting complete with slightly upscale decor, wine and beer, comfortable seating, and ingredients that were sustainably sourced. Don't mind paying two to three times the normal price? Brooklyn Wok Shop is your place. Located in a condo-sprouting section of Williamsburg long since cleansed of its actual Chinese carryouts, the Wok Shop seems like a safe formula for a restaurant. In a decorative touch filched from Ippudo, one wall is covered with 200 perfectly aligned bowls. There are low tables and high tables, recessed lighting, and a general austerity and serenity about the space—no red dragons or crawling babies or guys bursting from the kitchen running with plastic bags to their motorized bikes. Place your order at a counter in the rear from a list of mainly Cantonese dishes—though the choice is limited to a small fraction of the 100 to 200 selections normally offered on Chinese menus. In a novel touch, you're given a number on a stick to be placed on the table of your choice.
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